One of the most complex constructions, it is suitable for long-lasting sturdy shoes that brave the elements
Despite its name, Norwegian construction is mainly used in Italy and is one of the trickiest techniques, as it involves many steps and can quite rightly be regarded as a fully-fledged work of art.
The technique comes from the one traditionally used for Northern European hiking boots.
Designed to make the shoe waterproof, very tough and suitable for long periods of outdoor wear, Norwegian construction is also used today as a hallmark to confirm the extremely high level of manufacturing excellence of those who use it.
Norwegian construction by Sutor Mantellassi
Technical matters…
Although there are several names (beksøm in Norway, goyser or goiser in Austro-Hungarian tradition) and just as many variants (for example, Veldtschoen, Tirolese) and not all manufacturers define the same construction in the same way, Norwegian construction generally has three or four visible rows of stitching, braided into a chain running around the edge of the shoe.
The braided stitching joins the upper and the insole, while another row of stitching holds the upper and midsole together.
Linen thread is usually used and there are generally between 300 and 600 stitches.
[The video shows Norwegian construction being carried out at the Vittorio Spernanzoni company]
