From Pitti Uomo to the Milan and Paris Fashion Weeks: the first tips for S/S 2023

[On the cover: Fendi, Kenzo and Zegna SS2023 fashion shows]

Men’s fashions, showcased at Pitti Uomo and on the catwalks of Milan and Paris, once again feature a combination of streetwear and tailoring, traditional and disruptive dress codes, demonstrating a desire to maintain a cross-generational appeal but – above all – to attract Gen Z consumers. It’s not that classic items of menswear are destined to disappear from men’s wardrobes: they are, and will remain, staples. But now they are light and unstructured, relaxed and fluid, with an eye to tradition – played down by details such as a combination of high tech and natural materials and vibes stolen from sports and streetwear.

With its tank tops, vests and (very short) shorts, revisitations of vintage fashions (Dolce&Gabbana dug into their archives to reproduce pieces from the ’90s and early 2000s), tributes to heritage (Versace),  sportswear-inspired clothing with references to the surfing world (DSquared2) or to skateboarding (JW Anderson even incorporates real skateboards  into some garments), openly-declared sustainability (Zegna for traceable natural fibres and fabrics) or  naturalistic gags with plants that appear to be growing out of shoes and clothes (Loewe) – there is no doubt that men’s fashions for Spring/Summer 2023 offer infinite possibilities to mash up, mix and match, re-interpret and personalise one’s wardrobe. In fact, as we can see from Prada, individual garments which in themselves may be intrinsically classic can have a totally different impact when brought together in unusual combinations.

Footwear follows the same trend, revisiting classic wardrobe staples and offering new lightweight constructions, heritage-streetwear cross-contamination, the seasonless use of certain models (Prada’s outfits were accessorized with boots with upturned-toes, and male models for Dries Van Noten paraded in cowboy boots), artisanal heritage and futuristic silhouettes.

The lightness of tradition

It may not always be immediately visible, but as soon as you pick the shoe up you can feel the difference: lightness combines with flexibility to make certain moccasins and lace-ups soft and comfortable.  This is due to the materials used – particularly soft leathers and suedes – to the leather soles and Slip-lasting and Ideal construction methods.

Denim from head to toe

Denim is a timeless, genderless evergreen that has never disappeared from our wardrobes. But for the summer of 2023, it is going to be back with renewed vigour. On the catwalks we saw men in total denim, and footwear manufacturers were quick to reflect the trend in their collections, producing a range of models in denim – from moccasins and sneakers to ankle boots.

Sporty hybrids

Classic uppers (moccasin, double buckle, lace-up) with a sporty box or tank sole exemplify the cross-contamination that combines classic styles with contemporary lines, in the name of transversality and their different kinds of use.

Sneakers, from couture to sport

When we talk about sneakers, we shouldn’t just think about performance models, or those designed specifically for certain sports, such as running, tennis or basketball. For the stylish and sophisticated man who stills want to wear sneakers, there are a number of classy models around with clean lines, well-designed details and high-quality materials. In short, couture shoes in all respects.