DNA does not lie and the stylist returns to the limelight with clothing and footwear that mix touches from different cultures.
The presentation last January already made it clear, when he appeared on stage to play the guitar. His rock soul bound to his fashion like an indelible label, demonstrated in the recent women and men’s catwalk dedicated to the spring/summer 2018 collection. Only that now it has accentuated the contamination by other sub-cultures, those from Japanese bands, hip hop and the teddy girls. Thus faithful to his DNA, but also a long-standing production partner for men, women and children’s shoes, that continue to be manufactured by the Rodolfo Zengarini footwear factory, as the stylist explained.
How many years have you been working together?
I’ve been working with Zengarini for 25 years. We have both a solid professional and personal relationship. When by brand recently changed hands, I wanted to continue the footwear license with him. If you get along with someone, not everything needs to be explained. The company knows what I like, my needs and thus accommodates me.
How important are shoes for your brand?
Shoes continue to be important, even with the new path. In the past, they counted for 40% of my business and I expect them to maintain the same percentage in the future. Moreover, because the clothing market is increasingly more difficult and complex, accessories are the products that bring in the numbers.
How has the market changed?
A radical change. Internet and social media have revolutionised the fashion world and marketing methods. Collections can no longer be as vast as they were in the past, but in continuous evolution and, especially, without being tied to seasons. Thus the intrinsic value of the product, thus the quality and manufacture, become important. Long-standing customers must be satisfied, but also new consumers, that have a different buying approach. For example, the Chinese are glued to their cell phones, their whole lives are in them. They immediately buy what they see and we have to keep up with their pace. It is different for us Europeans, we have a long tradition of buying from boutiques. But new scenarios and challenges have opened to us.
What features must shoes have?
Shoes must contribute to making an outfit, adding a twist, thus they must have a strong character that is obtained through details.
Shoes must have a strong character that is expressed in the details.
What models do you prefer in the collection?
Thus with a box sole to distinguish them from leading players’ running shoes. Shoes with the tattoo details or piercings, studs and silk screening. A 70’s vintage allure can’t be denied in the wedges and colours.
Is the rock soul still found in the brand and thus in the catwalk?
It’s part of me. The catwalk is a journey through the most iconic metropolitan sub-cultures. A mix of punk, jap and pop art. Women’s jackets and pants with stylised flower gussets, embroidered denim skirts, optical black and white shirts, leather inlaid jackets, embroidered silk dresses with lacquered wooden clog accessories, shiny and glimmering with stones, rings and quills. For men, suede loafers or coconut print with clips and small studs.