Haute Couture on the catwalk in Paris: between transparencies and sculptural dresses, the high heel is the star of the show
[On the cover: Rahul Mishra Couture and Viktor&Rolf Couture SS23]
Haute couture or hot couture? During and after the Haute Couture catwalks in Paris for Spring/Summer 2023, debate was immediately sparked on social networks and media about the proposed bold looks, sculpted dresses, transparencies, sexy cuts, and energetic colours. A concentration of transgression in some cases, but also of creativity and the desire to convey freedom through the garments. An example that stands out is Valentino, who blends into the men’s and women’s collection, ties and briefs with huge bows, impalpable shirts and dresses, legs in the foreground. But there was also transparency from Dior and Fendi. And how can we fail to mention Schiaparelli with their fashion show inspired by Dante’s Inferno, with clothes poised between the real and the surreal, with wooden bead decorations, fabrics with colour-changing pigments, and the enormous animal heads that caused so much discussion? Or Viktor&Rolf’s clothes that were upside down and detached from the body, the most transgressive fashion duo who always stage spectacular catwalks? In general, the high fashion dresses were mostly accompanied by high-heeled pumps, models with platforms and ankle straps, sandals highly decorated with pearls and applications, pumps with heels embellished with embroidery.
Here is a selection of footwear from S/S 2023 that can accompany elegant outfits; seasonal models that are an expression of the beautiful and well-made quality that is typical of ‘Made in Italy’.