Moccasins, espadrilles and sneakers feature in the men’s spring/summer 2020 wardrobe
[On cover Pal Zileri, Salvatore Ferragamo and Iceberg S/S 2020]
Formal but not too formal, aggressive but not excessive, sporty but with couture details, heavily accessorised with bags, hats and – on the feet – comfortable and versatile shoes that reinvent the details. The men’s clothing presented on the runways at Pitti Uomo, Milan and Paris for spring/summer next year, is fluid, contaminated and pays more attention to organic textiles and materials, both for clothing and accessories.
Digressions on the moccasin
Combined materials, contrasting piping, double buckles and fringes, the moccasin – whether it be the yacht model, the car shoe or with a leather sole – is the shoe that has proven the most versatile in terms of materials, colours and detailing. Easy to wear with a classic or sporty look, it is the perfect passe-partout for every occasion.
The evolution of the espadrille
The espadrille has come a long way since the classic model with its cotton upper and jute rope sole. While the upper remains faithful to the original, the materials have been renewed for a modern look with leather or pony that has been drilled, braided or embellished with logos.
The rope sole, on the other hand, has been borrowed by other types of shoes, appearing in moccasins, loafers, desert boots and lace-ups.
The enduring sneaker
No collection exists without the sneaker; it refuses to give way to any other shoe. While on the one hand we are seeing a return to minimalism with models that are entirely white, on the other there are bold new sneakers defined by mixed materials and three-dimensional effects. Both are extremely lightweight.