Research and originality unite young designers who are coming out with their own brands
[On the cover: the models exhibited in the collective stand at MICAM]
After a training course focused on fashion and subsequent collaborations with major accessory brands, twelve young people came out and presented their brands in the “Emerging Designers” area at Micam in September. Collections that become an expression of everyone’s life and work experiences, of the culture of their country mixed with an international style, but all with the common trait of research into shapes and materials and an awareness of creating products that are ever more respectful of the environment.
Manuela Esposito made her debut with Sucette, a ‘Made in Italy’ collection – more precisely, made in Naples – which focuses on colour to attract a young audience even if the models are classic ones: slingbacks, platform sandals, touches of glitter, and details that recall coral.
Shoe Shoe by Elodie Verdan focuses on boots, passe-par-tout footwear that cuts across the seasons, with a minimalist design and clean lines, but characterised by seams, heels, and squared toes. The brand, created in 2019, is produced in Tuscany using leather stocks.
Éhonté expresses the dark soul of designer Sergio Silva who is inspired by the Bauhaus where form follows function. Produced by Brazilian artisans, the shoes have flat and round or trapeze heels, extreme toes, and wedges reminiscent of those of Japanese models.
Founded in Australia, Akudo Iheakanwa’s Shekudo brand, now in its third collection, is produced in Lagos, Nigeria with local leathers and fabrics. The sandals have chunky covered heels or wooden ball heels.
ID-EIGHT, behind which lies the duo of designers Dong Seon Lee and Giuliana Borzillo, is a brand already known on the market for its ‘Made in Italy’ sneakers. The new proposals feature a knitted upper in recycled polyester. The attention to waste leads to a project based on the disposal of footwear at the end of its life, the parts of which can be disassembled and recycled.
The Selva brand is inspired by pop art, designed by Juan Giménez who studied at the Arsutoria School in Milan and worked in Spain and Canada. Femininity and colour are the common thread of the collection with sandals with stiletto heels or chunky cork heels, supported by a wedge.
Ahdiid, or “I did” with a reinforcing “h”, is a project created by Mario Pini that revolves around a single product, a sandal characterised by a Vibram sole, an anatomic footbed, and a padded upper. From sponge to pony skin, from Swarovski to bandana fabric, colour is king.
It is the first collection of 10.2, designed by Scylia Chevaux who, however, boasts a decade of experience in the sector. The peculiarity of the ankle boots and sandals is the handcrafted “cushion heel”. The production is ‘Made in Italy’ and also includes unisex boots that are inspired by classic men’s safety shoes and lace-ups.
The Felipe Fiallo brand, which takes its name from its creator (see separate article) with a background ranging from industrial design, to knowledge of biology, to digital design, has aroused great interest. The result is a futuristic shoe with a 3D printed sole and upper that comes from a tea fermentation process.
Salone Monet, brand of the designer of the same name, is produced in Brazil. The collection, made up of high-heeled, sandals, ballet flats is declined in the “nude” colour in six different shades, but which adapt to the various skin types of multi-ethnic women. His shoes have been worn by Beyonce, Keke Palmer, and other celebs.
Victoria André designs Vandrelaar, a women’s line produced in Portugal with a seasonless and trendless spirit. These are sandals and slippers with an upper in linen, suede, or denim with three-dimensional effects. The materials are biobased and recycled.
Sophie Benel Paris, designed by Sophie Pantet, made her debut with SS 2023. Brand with a Parisian allure, but produced in the Marche region, it aims to be a synthesis between a timeless mood and a contemporary product, such as mules and high-heeled pumps with stiletto heels or a kitten heel and an upper with vinyl details.
Gallery in the article_Photocredits Gabriele Zanon