For Autumn-Winter 23/24 there is a desire for elegance with a pinch of extravagance
[On the cover: Prada, Ermanno Scervino, Iceberg FW 2023/24 catwalks]
From the catwalks of Milan fashion week, from White, and from Micam came the confirmation that clothing is veering in the direction of greater formal rigour, with a few exceptions in the form of runway gags. The pandemic has left streetwear behind, which even when it is present, is less aggressive. To accompany the outerwear with large, often exaggerated shoulders, oversized or slim trousers, miniskirts, culottes, and transparent dresses, there are shoes that belong to the classic tradition: high-heeled pumps, boots, sandals, and slingbacks with high or flat heels, revisited in terms of their details, especially in the heels, and in the decorations, because rigour does not mean simplicity. Creativity is never questioned, like the expertise in the production of the accessories, which is the flagship of ‘Made in Italy’ manufacturing. Among the colours, total white and total black are the dominant, while red stands out amongst the brighter shades.
Platforms & wedges
It supports models with ankle straps, sandals, open-toe pumps, and Mary-Janes, but also boots and ankle boots: the plateau is used to slim the leg and ranges from 1cm to 5cm. The new wedge, on the other hand, is thinner and slimmer, discreetly replacing the heel.
For the sportier models such as moccasins, the sole is instead a platform of uniform height and with a lug tread.
From the cuissard down
The cuissard (knee-high boot) continues to be presented on the catwalks, well beyond the thigh so as to become in some cases a legging-boot. The knee-high boot ranges from the tube version to its opposite, that is, with the leg fitting like a second skin. For more sporty and everyday clothing, the cargo boot with a zip or buttons makes its way alongside the biker boot with buckles, the Beatle boot with a large sole, and the revisited cowboy boot.
Décor from toe to heel
Games of origami, maxi bows, brooches, studs, and fluffy tufts adorn the tips of the shoes, from high-tops to flat ballerinas. But it is also the heel that attracts attention and very original ones have been seen on the catwalks and in presentations, such as the sculpted curved heel, the one in the shape of a lightning bolt or with a vinyl logo, or the ‘comma’ heel.
Gallery Platforms & wedges_Luciano Barachini/Kenneth Cole/Fratelli Russo/Thierry Rabotin
Gallery Boots_Antonio Barbato Maestri Veneziani/Nebuloni E./Alchimia/Voile Blanche/Calpierre/Nero Giardini
Gallery Décor_Dove nuotano gli squali/Stringart/Fabio Rusconi/Pas de Rouge
Photocredits Gabriele Zanon