From clothing to footwear, lightness will be the common thread for next season
[On the cover: Prada, Ermenegildo Zegna and Dior SS2022 fashion shows]
Summer means the comfort and freedom to mix details – even one that contrast with one other – where fashion rules are subverted and contaminated by different cultures and influences. An irreversible path for men’s clothing where formalwear loses all its rigidity in favour of more fluid shapes and streetwear takes refuge in what are almost sartorial details.
The men’s fashion shows for Spring-Summer 2022, whether in person or not, from Milan to Paris, and the Pitti Uomo collections turned the spotlight on a range of vibrant colours, with some concessions to more natural shades, on fluid silhouettes, on versatile garments and accessories, through a continuous dialogue between heritage and future. All seasoned with a good pinch of genderless ingredients.
Accessories remain firmly in the spotlight, from the head (think bucket hats or utility hats with micro pockets) passing through mini bags to hang around the neck or maxi bags to be carried by hand, to footwear ranging from moccasins, to sandals, to sneakers, all with the ‘Made in Italy’ hallmark – synonymous with good workmanship, high quality materials, and fashion content.
Classic footwear revisited
There is no compromise with the classic: lace-ups, Oxfords, and Derbys are timeless models, which are yet easily updated through the use of sportier leathers, colours and even decorations. An example of this is the lace-up proposed by Prada, enriched by a corolla of leather flowers, to be worn with socks even with jumpsuits and shorts. The classic is, thus, reinvented and even the most rigorous footwear with Norwegian manufacturing, synonymous with excellence in construction, can become more current in a super-coloured version made with very soft leathers.
Moccasins that wear like gloves
Many collections present unlined, unstructured and flexible moccasins, made with the “slip-lasting” method. The greased and antiqued leathers make them even softer and more pleasant to wear, but there are also many proposals for more structured models. With leather soles or with more sporty bottoms, woven or smooth leather uppers, the moccasins are transversal in many outfits that include both long and short trousers.
Sneakers that you cannot go without
Some consider them to be on the way out, some an evergreen for the male wardrobe. The truth, as always, lies somewhere in the middle, so much so that they are never missing on the catwalks and in footwear-specialised brands’ collections. The challenge today is not so much in models with cassette or chunky soles, mono or multicolour uppers, but in lowering the product’s environmental impact: soles in natural or recycled materials, bio-based uppers, and anything made with processes that exclude elements that damage or are noxious for health.
Photo credits Gabriele Zanon